Check-in was scheduled for 09:00 am at Crocodile Bridge Gate. We arrived at 08:30; enough time to get a coffee from the camp shop, do the mandatory last-minute loo thing and be at the rendezvous point with time to spare. There were 5 vehicles in total, the guide and 4 couples, each in their own vehicle. After introductions our guide, Nico Coetsee, issued each vehicle with a 2-way radio along with instructions on how to use it. We had a quick briefing on the do’s and don’ts for the next 5 days and the guys all made last minute vehicle checks. Then we were on our way.
We were excited. The weather was pleasant, especially after the cold spell we experienced before leaving Gauteng. This trip was discussed and agreed with Eugene and Marlene at least a year ago and the bookings were made and paid for in March. We left home on Thursday 26th and spent 3 nights at Marloth Park before our trip. Eugene and Marlene joined us on the 27th. All four of us were more than ready to leave the real world behind us and to simply enjoy every moment of the next 5 days…
Day 1 Sunday 29th Sep: 84 km, Crocodile Bridge Restcamp to the banks of the Mlondozi River, east of Lower Sabie Restcamp
Our route took us from Crocodile Bridge Restcamp down to the south-eastern corner of Kruger, on the Mozambican border, where we turned north and followed the fence along the Lebombo mountains. The mountain range stretches from Hluhluwe in the south to Limpopo Province in the north.
According to Nico (and http://www.krugerpark.co.za/kruger-park-news-know-your-park-whats-in-a-name-25487.html) the name Lebombo is of Zulu origin, and means
“…to decide which route to take in the direction in which you want to go, especially when someone migrates or moves”. The local inhabitants probably used the Lebombos as a landmark during their migration southwards to make sure they were still going in the right direction.
The veld was so dry and decimated that it was hard to imagine how the animals managed to survive. But they did, somehow, even though some seemed to be in less than perfect condition.
Nico informed us that the vegetation of the Lebombo region does not support large numbers of game. But he kept our interest peaked with his knowledge of the geology, veld types and ecology.
Something we did not realise was that the timing would not allow for elaborate fry-up brunch/lunch preparations as we had planned. So, our food plan had to be hastily adjusted. Lunches would henceforth consist of a preprepared snack and something to drink during a 30-40 minute break.
An afternoon stop at Lower Sabie Restcamp allowed us to refuel, fill water containers and buy ice. We had to ensure enough water for showering, washing up, drinking etc. until we would be able to replenish again in two days’ time.
We reached camp at around 4:30 pm with enough time to select a spot for the night and become familiar with our surroundings and gear. We haven’t used our rooftop tent and camping gear since our Namibia/Botswana trip in 2017 so we had to get into the routine again. I guess we are also spoilt with Ufudu…
The ablution facilities are the same at each of the camps. Roger discovered to his embarrassment that it is a good idea to ensure that the shower tap is closed prior to hoisting the bucket, especially considering the fact that we had seven litres each to shower with!
It was a long, hot and dusty day with a wealth of information imparted by Nico. Besides stopping at specific points of interest, he was sharing knowledge over the 2-way radio while driving. Now we were ready for the long-awaited experience of camping in Big 5 country with no fence around the camp!
By 10 pm the camp was quiet. I was contentedly drifting off to sleep, enjoying the fresh, unpolluted air when there was the deafening roar of a lion; very, very close by. Then the hyenas started up. The sounds of wilderness night life continued throughout the night. At some point we even heard a leopard walking past. (Eugene’s description of its breathing that sounds like sawing wood was spot-on.) It was thrilling.
Eugene and Marlene were the furthest into the bush, closest to the river bank. When he heard the lion roar Eugene realised that it was just below the bank behind their tent. He regretted not going to the loo an hour earlier when he first needed to. He and Marlene eventually climbed out but Marlene was not as brave as him and did not venture off the edge of the little mat below the tent’s steps. This is the reason why I always have a ‘pee bottle’ in the tent…