We were on the road by 7:30 am. It was still dark. The cold and mist created a mystical, eerie feeling which was heightened by my feeling of anticipation. Today was the big day…
It was interesting to see the city come alive slowly, with cockerels announcing the new day and shutters opening here and there.
Although the walk was pleasant my feet still became painful and tired after 12 km of mostly uphill so a short rest and coffee was called for. We arrived at the Cathedral in Santiago at 11h30, just in time to check our rucksacks into storage and find a seat in the cathedral.
What an impressive, awesome place! Entering the cathedral was an assault on the senses in terms of the glamour, the sights, and the smells. I could not understand a word of the ceremony but the atmosphere was amazing and the music was beautiful; and then there was the display of the Botafumeiro!
The swinging of the giant incense burner Botafumeiro was originally used to fumigate the sweaty (and mostly disease ridden) pilgrims that came to mass. Because it was costly and required half a dozen assistants known as Tiraboleiros (see first pic) it became a rare occurrence. It was therefore a unique and moving experience that made the end of the pilgrimage so much more special for me…
Overall a very emotional experience!
After the mass Leni went off to try and find a nearby place to stay, while I waited outside the cathedral, observing the passers-by; something I love doing. All the albergues were quite a distance away and we decided beforehand that it would be better to get private accommodation and be close to the cathedral.
Leni eventually returned empty-handed, but I had in the meantime chatted to a lady called Elena who was scouting in the direct vicinity of the cathedral. In no time we were organised and went with her to settle in at Puerta del Camino – Casas Reales. It turned out that Elena was the ‘marketer / recruiter’ and the apartments actually belonged to her mother Estrella, a very old lady who spoke no English.
We had the rest of the afternoon to spend in Santiago. I had a huge, sumptuous lunch and Leni kept me company with a beer. Then we went shopping for souvenirs before eventually joining the queue to get our certificates.
I went to bed with a huge sense of achievement and satisfaction…
