After shopping in Swellendam we checked into the Bontebok National Park for 2 nights. Swellendam lies at the foot of the Langeberg Mountans and is the 3rd oldest town in South Africa. The Bontebok is situated approximately 5 Km outside of town.
A cold front was upon us again so we just settled in and snuggled up under the duvet with our books. The next day (father’s day) it was still rainy and miserable so we went into town again to find a Laundromat, which to our surprise was the best one we have encountered to date. After the drudgery of domestic chores we went to the La Belle Alliance restaurant where, in the absence of Kevin, I treated Roger to a special father’s day lunch. The food was excellent, the atmosphere was pleasant and there was a cosy wood fire to top it all.
By now the weather had cleared and we went on a drive around the Park but the birds and animals were probably still hiding from the cold because we did not see much at all.
We were again late leaving the next day, as always, but this time it was partly due to the long chat we had with Howard and Toni Langley. Howard is a retired National Parks Board manager who was responsible for, amongst other things, the development of the Tankwa Karoo National Park and Toni is a micro-biologist at 2 Military Hospital. They also own a motorhome which Howard built himself. Most interesting conversations!
Things look very different when the sun is out and we had a most enjoyable drive out of the Park. We took the ‘scenic’ route instead of going directly out.
On leaving the Park we headed towards Riversdale, once again avoiding the freeway as much as possible. We climbed up the scenic Tredouw Pass, through Barrydale and down the Garcia’s Pass, entering Riversdale from the North. It was a stunning drive!
When we were at the Agulhas lighthouse the Tourist Guide told us to be on the lookout for a mountain silhouette, called ‘sleeping beauty’, once we got to the this area. Neither of us could remember exactly where it would be though. Much to our surprise the farm we were heading for (Zeekoegat) and hence our overnight spot, had a direct view of the Sleeping Beauty.
The farm belongs to Bool and Sam Smuts whom we met while we were at Prince Albert. They are passionate about conservation, and especially predator conservation, and Bool is the founder of the Landmark Foundation. Check it out at www.facebook.com/LandmarkFoundation
We were warmly welcomed and Bool took us on a tour of the property before darkness set in. It is a wonderful story of perseverance and success. When he bought the property the entire wetland area was totally inundated with Black Wattles. He has spent the last 3 years with 8 labourers clearing the area. They subsequently sell the wood but the cost still far exceeds the income. The results are spectacular and the cleared area is already covered with pioneer grasses and Palmiet. Such an impressive achievement; such a pity there are not more people as dedicated and determined as he is!
The homestead is the original one and therefor has heritage status. They are in the process of restoring it to its old glory but my goodness, what a task. And what an achievement it will be.
We had a lovely evening, enjoying Sam’s food, good company and good wine. Thanks again to Sam and Bool for their hospitality. We will be back, hopefully in a capacity to assist with their conservation efforts.
Riversdale, established in 1838, is a pleasant town and one of those that left us with a good feeling. We paid a visit to the Julius Gordon Africana Centre in Versveld House and were most impressed with all the art and antiques housed there. Amongst the exhibits were a number of items from the farm Zeekoegat where we had just been. The curator, Johan, was clearly very interested and well informed. His guidance made the visit so much more interesting.
We decided to go to Wimpy for lunch and were no sooner seated when, completely by chance, our new acquaintances Howard and Toni also arrived and joined us. We had a lovely lunch and chat before going our separate ways again.
We were now heading for Grootvadersbosch where we planned to spend the night.