Richtersveld Transfrontier Park

Experiencing the Richtersveld had been on our bucket list for a long time. Part of the Richtersveld is a World Heritage site and the Park area is the only true mountain desert in Southern Africa. Now we were on our way there! We left Brandkaros early and with great expectations.

The reservations and check-in at Sendelingsdrift went smoothly and a very knowledgeable official, Hendrik, explained to us where to go and what to expect on the roads. Our first night would be spent at the Pootjiespram Campsite, then two nights at De Hoop, followed by the last night at Richtersberg. Amongst other things Hendrik warned us about the Akkedis Pass in terms of Ufudu’s width and length. He seemed to be concerned about the many sharp bends along the way, insisting that he had to warn that we could scratch the vehicle.

Even though the landscape was different to where we just came from, spring was clearly in the air. The show of flowers was not as dazzling as in Springbok and Namaqua National Park but just as beautiful, if not more so. Here one had a feeling of expectation; there was some surprise around every corner. The scenery constantly changed between sharp rocky mountain slopes, dry river beds, flat plains and valleys; between totally barren to amazingly colourful. The vast desolation of the place is just beyond description and for all the days we were there we discussed at length the wonder of the geological forces that brought about a place like this. The many pictures in this post (yes, even more than usual, sorry!) may go some way to show some of it…

We were a little disappointed in the Pootjiespram campsite. It was rather closed in with wild Tamerisk and Ebony trees blocking the river view. A short walk was required to reach the river (not a bad thing!) but somehow we felt cheated at not having a ‘room with a view’. The very fine alluvial dust in the campsite also billowed up in clouds with every gust of wind.

While inflating the tyres in the picture above, a group of three vehicles passed by and Avroy Shlain, one of the directors of the Bateleurs happened to be in the second one. He and Roger had a quick chat before they drove off.

When we got to De Hoop we felt elated. This was what we wanted: a river-side site with beach-like sand, rapids to fly fish in and far enough away from the neighbours to still feel the isolation that is part of being here. The evenings were mild, with clear starry skies and just the sound of the rapids and the frogs in the reeds below our site.

We were reluctant to leave De Hoop but at the same time keen to see the next camp.

At Richtersberg we found that there were only 3 of the 6 campsites available; the others, including their ablution block had washed away in the previous floods. Our site was very cosy and completely screened from the other two. Bliss!

On our last day in the Park we stopped at a small ‘koppie’ for lunch and then took a walk to the large Quiver tree growing at the top.

Up close it was absolutely incredible to see the plant and animal diversity that is missed when the area is viewed from a distance. Following are just a few of the species we saw:

There was just so much to see and in our usual style we stopped every few paces to id a bird, take pictures or observe some animal such as the Dassie Rat. Luckily we made the gate just before closing time!