We were up at sunrise (see Pauline, we can actually do it!) on the day we left Coffee Bay. It took some lateral thinking to get out of the campsite. Roger unhitched the trailer, moved Ufudu to the other side facing the gate, and then turned the trailer around with some help from the staff. Ufudu was taken out first so hitching to go was rather painless after that.
Our first stop was at Qunu which has been on our must-do list since the beginning. There we visited the Nelson Mandela museum and after receiving some orientation from a tour guide set off to view the exhibition halls.
The museum operates at two sites namely Qunu and Mthatha. The Qunu site was specifically selected for the museum because it lies between Mr Mandela’s first school, his home and a General Store where he ‘saw his first white person’. The grave site was pointed out to us in the distance and as we know it cannot be visited.
We had lunch in Ufudu while parked in the museum grounds before continuing our journey to the Dwesa Nature Reserve. We travelled on the N2 up to Dutywa and from there to the reserve via Willowvale. Up to Willowvale the road was both tarred and good. Then there was a 45 Km stretch of dirt that was almost identical to the road down to Mkambati Nature Reserve. At least this one was dry. Our average speed was probably no more than 15 Km/hour, again! Anyway, we got there and were settled in before dark.
The campsite has no power at all, not even solar powered lights or lanterns in the ablutions. They also charge a rate per campsite rather than per person which means that for the two of us it was rather expensive for what we got, compared to the same cost for a group of 6 people.
The reserve is absolutely beautiful and covers forest, grassland and marine biomes.
The information brochure said that they have Cape buffalo but we did not see any. In fact, we were disappointed that there was so little wild life to be seen, besides the monkeys and two bushbuck to be seen around the camp.
We drove down an interesting 4×4 track, which got progressively more obscure as we progressed from forest through grassland towards the beach. Once there we went for a 7 Km walk from Mendu Point along the beach to the Mbashe river mouth and back. The wind was howling, blowing from the rear on the way there which meant that the return was rather more difficult. But that did not detract from our enjoyment; we were selfishly enjoying being the only people on this pristine stretch of beach (besides the cows of course!).
We spotted a train of Processionary Caterpillars in the forest, measuring about 1 metre. These caterpillars live together in large groups, moving from tree to tree. The caterpillar trains can grow as long as 20 metres, as each caterpillar wants to join up with a train, and smaller trains therefore join up with each other. While walking each caterpillar spins a thin thread of silk which results in the procession leaving behind a track of silken threads. Eventually they pupate together in a large bag enclosed in several layers of silk. [Ref: Insectlopedia of Southern Africa by Erik Holm]
We were also lucky to spot a Stick Insect. In fact, it mysteriously appeared on Suzi’s steering wheel. Stick insects are nocturnal herbivores and because of their slow movement and excellent camouflage are seldom seen.
After two nights at Dwesa Nature Reserve we decided to take a different route back to the N2 which would take us past the Collywobbles, an IBA and vulture breeding site. The Slingsby map indicated a tarred road after about 40 Km of dirt. Well, that was totally incorrect because the tarred section was at most a kilometre long! This of course messed up our planned timing because the going was extremely slow once again. We can officially announce that we have now had enough of the Wild Coast dirt roads for a while! We are also happy to leave behind the groups of children that run out to beg, calling “sweets, sweets”. The sad thing is that whoever started the trend of handing out sweets/money has actually created a culture of begging, which is not doing anyone any favours… But let me immediately add that the people in general are very friendly and not all the children beg. Often we got enthusiastic waves and big smiles!
The route took us through beautiful hills and valleys and across the Mbashe River, as well as past the Mandela School of Science and Technology. It almost seemed out of place in the very rural setting, yet so comforting to know that these children also have a chance at advanced subjects.
At some time during the afternoon Roger got out of Ufudu to speak to the driver of a truck that was blocking the road (fortunately!) when he noticed that one of the trailer wheels was flat. Yet another delay while the wheel was changed. In retrospect we consider ourselves lucky that this was the first puncture so far.
We had planned to go via the scenic Collywobbles viewpoint but that meant a 10 Km detour, but due to all the delays we ran out of time and had to give the viewpoint a miss.
We eventually got to Double Mouth campsite after dark. The road from Morgan Bay had two gates that had to be opened and at the first one I noticed that neither the trailer nor Ufudu’s tail lights were working. Something else that will need attention!
Shame guys, after you did so well to get moving early. Shout when you get to Ballito, we can pick you up from the airport.