Port Alfred

The Willows Municipal Caravan Park in Port Alfred is situated on the banks of the Kowie River, about 1,5 Km from the river mouth and is ideal for launching Splash. It even has its own jetty! Our site overlooked the small craft harbour and marina.

View of the Kowie River towards the bridge as seen from the campsite
View of the Kowie River towards the Nico Malan bridge, as seen from the campsite

The first thing after setting up camp was an exploratory visit to the breakwater and the beach. Kelly beach has Blue Flag status and is ideal for long walks. We also encountered a sand sculptor near the breakwater; they are so amazingly creative!

Breakwater
Breakwater
Kelly beach
Kelly beach
Giving sharks a bad name!
Giving sharks a bad rap!
Beneficiary?
Beneficiary?

Lunch at the Fresh Fish Market was truly delicious and included a complimentary beer from the (local) Wharf Street Brewery.

Fresh Fish Market
Fresh Fish Market

After lunch we went up the river for a couple of hours. The scenery is beautiful and we encountered quite a few birds, but a special sighting was spotting a water monitor swimming across the river. It was not easy to capture because the boat moves up and down on the waves and the subject moves, but here is proof…

Water Monitor swimming across the Kowie River
Nearly there…
Pied Kingfisher
Pied Kingfisher

The next morning Roger went to the breakwater at the harbour entrance to fish and at last came home with something to justify all the money spent on artificial lures! He caught a 6kg Garrick. Believe me when I say that nothing could dampen his excitement and pride! Here is his story:

There was one other person fishing when I got there and he had already caught a few shad. He advised that they were taking quite deep, so I allowed the rubber paddle tail lure to sink before retrieving. On the 3rd cast, as I started to reel in I thought I had snagged a rock by allowing the lure to sink too deep. But then to my complete surprise the reel screamed as the fish realised it was hooked, and ran! After a few minutes it surfaced and I thought it was a huge shad. Now I was in a bit of a dilemma, as I wouldn’t be able to lift the fish up the side of the breakwater with the 4.5 kg line I was using, and my rod was too short to manoeuvre it around the concrete blocks and land it on the beach. After about 15 minutes I brought the exhausted fish with a wave onto one of the concrete blocks below and saw it was a Garrick. I tried to lift it carefully up the side but the line broke. I didn’t have much time to act as the next big wave was on its way. I scrambled down the side, grabbed the fish in the gills and climbed back just before the next wave broke. The minor cuts and abrasions endured during this manoeuvre were only discovered once the adrenalin wore off!

The rocks below, where the fish was landed
Concrete blocks at the breakwater
70 cm Garrick
The proud fisherman!
Paddle-tail lure that was used
Bait

We were told that this fish is not good for eating but Roger had injured the gills so it could not be released. After a call to Francois on how to prepare the fish we set about doing just that. Roger gutted and cleaned and together we skinned it before soaking it in milk for the afternoon. After a light sprinkling of flour, salt and Aromat we pan-fried it in a mixture of garlic- and olive oils. It was delicious!!

During our stay at the Willows we met a guy called Gé, a business man and owner of the Ongegund wine farm in Somerset West. He also has a motorhome build by AC Motorhomes and needless to say we immediately hit it off so he was invited to share our Garrick meal. During the evening we noticed a small mouse scampering up Ufudu’s wheel, across the table and into the freezer compartment. I managed just one photo before he decided to make a hasty retreat.

Peak-a-boo
Peak-a-boo

Roger had still not given up on Shad though, and was up early again the next day, back to the breakwater. He soon returned with 2 Shad for our supper. What a provider….

It was Sunday so we went to Bathurst as recommended by many.  First stop was the Farmers’ Market and I am sure you know by now that we cannot resist all the fresh produce and sumptuous foods. After the market we went to the Wiles Gallery and then to the Agricultural Museum. I was reminded of my farther then because he was so knowledgeable about the implements and items on display and it always made such a difference when going to such places with someone that can tell you what you are looking at, as well as the history of it. I really missed him then…

Main hall at the Agricultural Museum
Main hall at the Agricultural Museum

Now it was time for a home-made pie and a beer at the Pig and Whistle, allegedly the oldest pub in South Africa.

Pig and Whistle Inn
Pig and Whistle Inn
History of the Pub
History of the Pub

We spent 4 nights at the Willows Caravan Park. During this time we constantly heard a Knysna Warbler in the shrub less than 2 metres from our window but were frustratingly never able to see it!

Port Alfred has a relaxed, friendly atmosphere and one feels you could stay longer but it is time to move; Bushmen’s River perhaps?