Kruger National Park

We spent November 2013 in Kruger and had such a wonderful time that we decided to take our next leave in November as well. We just had to go back in summer to experience the birds, new growth and new life again. Sadly, this time round it was nothing like 2013; that was a year of good rain and this year we are in the grip of a devastating drought.

We entered the Park on Sunday 22nd via the Numbi Gate and spent a night each in Pretoriuskop, Satara, Letaba, Tsendze, Balule, Satara (again) and Skukuza Camps before leaving through the Crocodile Bridge Gate on Sunday 29th. It was depressing to say the least. The migrants seemed late arriving and not in the abundance we have seen before. There were no new-born Impala; the first we saw were two on the day we left.

Forester moth
Forester moth?
Making potjie at Tsendze (note the wind protection to protect the low gas flame)
Making potjie at Tsendze (note the wind protection for the low gas flame)

The dams are dry or drying and the ones with water seemed to be kept wet artificially. The heat was almost unbearable, reaching 43⁰C at Letaba on the day we were travelling back down towards Balule.

Eish!
Eish! The indoor temperature was with aircon full blast…

Then, suddenly, we had a storm (mostly wind) and things cooled down to 19⁰C and cloudy. That was a huge bonus, even though it still did not rain much; just a bit of drizzle now and then.

The lump in the water is a hippo dying, surrounded by barbel squirming in the mud
The lump in the water is a hippo dying, surrounded by barbel squirming in the mud
Another dying hippo, trying to find relief in a water trough seemingly unable to get out again
Another dying hippo, trying to find relief in a water trough seemingly unable to get out again
Elephants digging for water in the dry river bed
Elephants digging for water in the dry river bed
Green algal slime at Sunset Dam. Gross...
Green algal slime at Sunset Dam. Gross…

One of the highlights of the trip was a guided walk at Olifants Rest Camp. We met Christo at Letaba and he told us about this walk which almost guaranteed a sighting of the Pel’s Fishing Owl. Decision made; we are going on the River Walk.

That night at Balule camp the son of the next-door campers found a scorpion. Roger was quick to fetch our ‘scorpion’ torch, happy that at last we had the opportunity to use it. Christiaan scanned the campsite for a long time afterwards, thoroughly enjoying the new ‘toy’, despite his parents obvious dismay!

Parabuthus transvaalicus?
Parabuthus transvaalicus?

We were up early and arrived at Olifants Camp in time for breakfast before the walk at 9 am. At the same time Roger arranged with camp management to have Ufudu plugged in while we were away in order to get the batteries charged. The heat during the night at Balule camp, with no external power, had caused the fridge and freezer to drain the batteries and the solar panel was now battling. The day was cool after the previous day’s heat so besides Ufudu being plugged in we were also happy that the walk would be bearable.

River walk with guide Vusi
River walk with guide Vusi

It was absolutely worth it; we had a really good sighting of the Pel’s. My photos were not as good as Deon’s but you can see him nonetheless…

Pel’s Fishing Owl
Pel’s Fishing Owl

During times of drought the predators do well of course. The lions were mating, the wild dogs were in good condition and the birds of prey all seemed to be well-fed.

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"Don't mess with me!"
“Don’t mess with me!”

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Tawny Eagle with Plated Lizard
Tawny Eagle with Plated Lizard
Spotted Thick-knee (3 adults and 1 chick)
Spotted Thick-knee (3 adults and 1 chick)
Blacksmith Lapwing chic
Blacksmith Lapwing chic
Martial Eagle
Martial Eagle
Bateleurs
Bateleurs
Woodland Kingfisher
Woodland Kingfisher
Green-backed Camaroptera
Green-backed Camaroptera
We had a number of Ground Hornbill sightings
We had a number of Ground Hornbill sightings. Here were 4 in a tree and we listened to their melodic booming calls for about 20 minutes. Mesmerising…
Squacco Heron fishing at Lake Panic
Squacco Heron at Lake Panic

It was with a dull feeling of disappointment and concern that we left the Park. I feel such pity for the suffering of the animals and there seems to be no promise of relief in the immediate future…

Full moon at Lethaba camp
Full moon at Lethaba camp

 

 

2 comments

  1. It is sad to see the animals suffer. I must admit I will only go to the Kruger next year when it is raining again.

    1. Indeed Andre, I am battling to get the image out of my head of the hippo being ‘eaten alive’, his nostrils pecked away and deep scratches on his back, perhaps made by lion, blisters caused by the scorching sun. Dying is one thing; suffering is another altogether…

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