KNP Skukuza

As Lower Sabie was fully booked we decided to go to Skukuza. We had never intended camping at Skukuza as past experience had shown that it was crowded, with not much space or shade available. At Lower Sabie the campsites are very small, with the result Suzi had to spend a lonely night in the parking lot with only her ‘carriage’ for company. What a pleasant surprise when we were able to get a really well shaded campsite at Skukuza. There was ample space because of the almost empty camp. We ended up spending three nights!

The road between Lower Sabie and Skukuza is very scenic but we were convinced that there were no animals left in the park! Anyway, there are always birds and other beautiful things to see. We saw an African Wattled Lapwing whose chicks all scattered for cover except for the smallest one who ducked underneath mother’s protective breast and did not move until we left.

It was a cold and windy morning as shown by the Brown Snake Eagle who had to cling to his branch lest he be swept off it.

I was driving and a shape in the shadows caught Roger’s attention. The ‘STOP!’ call follows, reverse, grab binoculars, and then the identification ritual starts. It was an African Goshawk, a first for us.

At Skukuza we heard the Thick-tailed Bushbaby (Greater Galago) calling. We rushed out and found that he was in the Acacia tree under which we were parked. He observed his surroundings, climbed down and ambled towards the ablutions, probably to snack on the insects attracted by the lights.

Our favourite spot in the Skukuza area is the Lake Panic hide. There is always something happening. The day was still overcast and windy so the light quality was not great.

The next morning we set out early again and spotted a beautiful Leopard Orchid. Orchids are not parasitic and use the tree for support only, i.e. they are epiphytes. This species is the largest found in Southern Africa and can reach up to 100 years of age. [From Game Ranger in Your Backpack which has been a constant source of useful information].

We encountered hyena on all three morning drives. They seem to always run along the road and are not easy to photograph because they move with surprizing speed!

Bridges over rivers are our favourite spots because there is generally something happening. We spotted a Wire-Tailed Swallow on a bridge alongside the Sand River and while photographing it a movement on the opposite bank caught our attention. It was a Wild Dog! We now spent considerable time trying to see the pack and get some photographs but it was very frustrating as we could hear them splashing in the river but they were out of sight behind the embankment vegetation! Every now and then one would venture out and show himself.

At Orpen Dam we were intrigued by the behaviour of the hippos. Sections of the dam were covered by water lettuce, an exotic invader plant from South America. Every now and then a hippo would break away from the pod, wade into the lettuce area, then turn around and return to the pod. We were wondering whether they liked the feel of it on their skins as there seemed no purpose to their actions.

After the dam we stopped at Tshokwane picnic spot which turned out to be rather infuriating! We were walking alongside each other and I was holding an apple in my hand. The next moment it was snatched from behind by a Vervet Monkey who disappeared up the nearest tree and proceeded to eat it while defiantly looking at us. Fresh fruit and vegetables are very expensive in the park and we were intending to share that apple as part of our lunch! Roger immediately went to the camp attendants and borrowed their catapult. The monkeys scattered at the first sight of him taking aim and remained weary while it was visible. They create absolute havoc amongst all the guests, grabbing packets of snacks and terrorising the children and women. An American tourist was so amused that he asked me to recant the story for a video recording. … 5 seconds of fame?

Later on in the afternoon we came across a breeding herd of elephant. We were observing them when a cow with very strangely shaped tusks caught our attention.