Die Dam to Agulhas

Leaving Gansbaai we felt heartened by the promise of good weather for the next few days (predicted by yr.no). We followed the R43 and by the time we reached ‘Die Dam’ it was bright and sunny. There were birds everywhere and I could swear they felt as happy about the sunshine as we were…

Bokmakierie singing his heart out
Bokmakierie singing his heart out
Southern Tchagra
Southern Tchagra
Brimstone Canary
Brimstone Canary

Die Dam borders on the Agulhas National Park and the area is beautiful. We took Suzi for a drive along a sand track between the Fynbos towards Quoin Point until the track petered out on a rocky beach.

View across Die Dam towards Agulhas National Park with campsite on left
View across Die Dam towards Agulhas National Park with campsite on left

We were looking out towards a small rocky island close to the shore when we realised that the ‘rocks’ were actually wall-to-wall Cape Fur Seals!

Moving rocks?
Moving rocks?
Hartlaub’s Gull
Hartlaub’s Gull
Unidentified shrub with fleshy flowers/fruit (Rinette can you maybe help?)
Unidentified shrub with fleshy flowers/fruit (Rinette can you maybe help?)

Late afternoon we took the opportunity to sit on Ufudu’s roof, enjoying sundowners until it got dark. It was a glorious day! That night the full moon had a very wide, bright halo around it; magic…

Sundowners at Die Dam
Sundowners at Die Dam

The next day also promised to be stunning so we were up early, watching the sunrise over a steaming mug of coffee.

Sunrise at Die Dam
Sunrise at Die Dam

After breakfast we continued our journey towards Agulhas. The countryside was alive and very beautiful indeed.

Protea obtusifolia
Protea obtusifolia

In the farmlands we passed along our route we spotted numerous bird species, including 6 of the endangered Denham’s Bustard and 2 Blue Cranes, Fish Eagle, African Spoonbill, Malachite Sunbird and many more.

Denham’s Bustard
Denham’s Bustard
Blue Crane being mobbed by Crowned Lapwings
Blue Crane being mobbed by Crowned Lapwings

After lunch (in Ufudu parked next to the beach at Struisbaai) we continued to the L’Agulhas Caravan Park in L’Agulhas. As soon as Ufudu was comfortably installed on a level campsite we went exploring. First stop was the Agulhas Lighthouse and Museum.

I cannot yet walk comfortably so I was rather unsure of going up to the top of the old lighthouse. It was however not a problem because I did all the climbing work with my right leg – it was great just being out there again.

The original lighthouse, commissioned on 1 March 1849 and restored in 1988
The Agulhas lighthouse, modelled on the Egyptian lighthouse at Alexandria, was commissioned on 1 March 1849 and restored in 1988
Almost there...
Almost there…
At the top, with L'Agulhas in the background (and of course Ufudu and Suzi)
At the top, with L’Agulhas in the background (and of course Ufudu and Suzi)

Next we went to Cape Agulhas, the Southern-most tip of Africa where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans officially (geographically) meet. This was another item on our bucket list that could now be ticked!

The early Portuguese navigators named this Cabo das Agulhas, or Cape of Needles, after noticing that their compass needles showed little magnetic deviation and pointed almost due north when passing this point
The early Portuguese navigators named this Cabo das Agulhas, or Cape of Needles, after noticing that their compass needles showed little magnetic deviation and pointed almost due north when passing this point

Late afternoon we went to the Struisbaai Harbour which is one of the last remaining operational historic and cultural fishing harbours on our South African coastline.

Fishing boats returning at Struisbaai. Stunning evening!
Fishermen returning at Struisbaai. What a stunning evening!

Roger could not resist buying a Geelbek (Cape Salmon) directly from the fish merchant on the slipway. Geelbek has been Roger’s favourite since spending week-ends deep-sea fishing with Clive White in Port Alfred during their time flying for SpeedServices.

The Pelican Restaurant at the harbour was recommended by the very informative and helpful Tourist Guide at the Lighthouse museum and there we enjoyed a dinner of freshly caught pan-seared Kob. Also at the restaurant we started chatting to two other patrons, Ester and Paul. Ester is an interior decorator and Paul is an architect. It was not long before we joined them at their table for a very pleasant evening.

The Agulhas National Park does not cater for day visitors so we could only drive as far as the gate near Suider Strand, about 5 km west of Cape Agulhas. Nevertheless it was worth it with Southern Double Collared Sunbirds flitting about the Fynbos in the warm sun. Very frustrating as they always decide to fly off as soon as the camera focuses! The day started out sunny and windless but by late morning the next cold front was upon us and the sea was a sheet of white waves – again!

Remains of the Meishu Maru 38, a Japanese fishing vessel wrecked in 1982
Remains of the Meishu Maru 38, a Japanese fishing vessel wrecked in 1982
Cape Spurfowl
Cape Spurfowl
Lions at Agulhas?
Lions at Agulhas?

After enjoying some wonderful weather and interesting experiences in L’Agulhas we headed out north towards Bredasdorp.