The day had arrived that we were to embark on our long-awaited trek. I have often imagined it during the past 20-odd years.
Knowing that the day was going to a long one we made sure we had a substantial breakfast. At least 9 hours of walking over challenging terrain, according to the itinerary. But we (read that as me) are always slower so we will just take it as it comes.
We were ready and waiting in reception at 8am as per schedule and our driver was there shortly afterwards to transfer us to the starting point at Sans-Souci.
Our route would take us from Sans-Souci via Ilet des Orangers to Roche Plate, overnighting at Gîte Chez Juliette.
Anticipation soon dissipated and was replaced by mild anxiety due to the traffic congestion between Saint-Gilles-les-Bains and Saint Paul. A late start, combined with our average walking speed would mean an even longer day.
What was interesting though is that cars did not frantically change lanes, weaving in and out to try and gain ground. Everyone stayed patiently in their lanes. No taxis, no hooters!
At about 9:15am we eventually reached a point where the vehicle could go no further and we were dropped off. From there we had to follow the track to the starting point of our hike. Concern and uncertainty reined because of the area we had to walk through. It was like a slum with broken down abandoned car wrecks, barking dogs, chickens foraging, smelly refuse etc.
I suddenly realised that I had forgotten to fill my water bottle. According to the trail information there would be no water on the route so needless to say, I panicked. After a short while Roger spotted someone watering their garden and we asked, using sign language of course, if we could fill up. No problem. We relaxed and were soon on our way again.
Cirque de Mafate was formed when the magma chamber of Piton des Neiges, or ‘snow peak’, collapsed some three million years ago. It is unique in that the entire cirque, which contains over 200km of hiking trails, has no roads and is accessible only by foot or helicopter. This means that perishables are flown in to the villages by helicopter and rubbish is back-hauled. All very organised according to a daily schedule.
The name ‘Mafate’ comes from the Malagasy word ‘mahafaty’, which means ‘lethal’ or ‘the one who kills’, an allusion to the difficulty in accessing this cirque.
Once we reached the official start of the trail and left all habitation behind, our mood lifted. It was like being in another world.
The first hour was a constant uphill, but once we ascended to the level where we started following the contour path the going became easier. The views were breath-taking; us high above, the river far below, gorges, mountains, waterfalls. Everything green as far as the eye could see. Truly soul food.
At some point we realised that we were actually walking on a cliff edge, with just some wooden planks bridging the gap in places, preventing you from stepping into the abyss.
It was really hot walking in the full sun and we soon started worrying about our water running out.
There was a 30cm diameter water pipe running along the path which was the reason for the well-trodden contour path. Imagine our elation when we spotted a defective valve in said pipe. This is our chance. It was squirting straight up into the air so was rather a challenge but Roger managed to fill our water bottles despite getting drenched in the process.
After several hours we left the contour path behind us and were once again ascending. As the day wore on it became more and more taxing. The path wound upward in a zig-zag pattern, seemingly without end. Just as you think you have reached the top it starts zig-zagging downwards towards the river; just to start the upward path once again…
After what seemed like an eternity we eventually caught sight of some mountain huts. What a relief. But the signage, as good as it was, did not guide us directly to our Gîte. It showed the turn-off to a Gîte, but if it was not yet yours you had no idea how much further you still had to go. It was with great relief that we eventually got to Gîte Chez Juliette at about 5:30pm.
We had enough time to shower, do the laundry and settle in with a shot of whiskey before dinner.
The accommodation was dormitory style and dinner was communal, served at 7pm. It consisted, as all the others to follow, of a rum and fruit juice cocktail, salad, rice (lots of it), dahl, veggies and a sausage rougail (rougail saucisse) which is a traditional tomato and chili pepper-based dish, followed by cake for dessert. All the evening meals were variations of this. Very tasty, filling and nutritious.
We were hugely relieved to be horizontal by 9pm. Reflecting on the 1st day of hiking, it was interesting, challenging, and very beautiful but rather devoid of wild-life by African standards. Let’s see what the next days have in store…
Whenever I mention to my RWFL (Run Walk for Life) buddies that I am going on a backpacking trip they inevitably ask ‘how far do you walk per day?’ And I usually answer ‘distance is not important, rather terrain and degree of difficulty’.
My Fitbit showed 317 flights of stairs and 25,5km distance for the day.