Beyond the KNP Lebombo Eco Trail 2

Tsendze Rustic Camp

After check-in and a swim at Marula Restcamp we took a leisurely drive to the campsite which is situated 10 km to the south. En-route we stopped in at the Shipandane Hide. We love going there and had even spent a night there before.

It was an extremely hot afternoon and we noticed the birds practicing gular fluttering. ‘Gular fluttering’ refers to a bird opening its mouth and fluttering its upper throat muscles to promote heat loss. I felt so sorry for them.

Grey Heron
Grey Heron in zen pose. We have never seen this before.
Purple Heron
Purple Heron
Crocodile
‘Cool’ dude

While we were at the hide a familiar looking guy came in and in no time we started chatting. It was Rodgers, the camp attendant at Tsendzi! He told us where to find a Verreaux’s Eagle Owl on our way to camp and showed us photos he had of the parent and chick. After a bit of back and forth we eventually found the correct loop.

Giant Eagle owl, no chick unfortunately
Verreaux’s Eagle Owl , no chick unfortunately
Hyena nursing
Hyena nursing a rather large pup, totally not phased by the spectators
Sun-downers at Tsendze
Sun-downers at Tsendze. Always very special

Something we always look forward to at Tsendze is interacting with the friendly staff. They are always keen to make your stay special. Rodgers came around at dusk as usual to check on all the campers and have a chat. He showed us pics of 20 roan that crossed the road on his way back from the hide and promised to show us the resident owls in the morning.

African Scops Owl
African Scops Owl
African Barred Owlet
African Barred Owlet
Red-billed Buffalo Weaver
Red-billed Buffalo Weaver

Roger suggested that we avoid the N4 and take a different route home, so we decided to exit the Park at the Phalaborwa Gate and travel home via Dullstroom.

Big tusker indeed
Big tusker indeed
Marshall Eagle
Martial Eagle in the Letaba river

While driving (not all that slowly, I might add) Roger noticed a ‘shape’ in a small Mopani tree alongside the road. He slammed on brakes and reversed to check it out. To our amazement it turned out to be a Southern White-faced Owl! This is the first time we’ve seen one in the wild, only having heard them calling before.

Southern White-faced Owl
Southern White-faced Owl
Elephant sleeping
Siesta
Barbel
Let’s hope it rains soon. Poor hapless, helpless barbel
Hyena in the mud
Cooling down in the mud

There is a picnic site at the Masorini Iron Age archaeological site, about 12 km from Phalaborwa Gate where we had lunch. After lunch we decided to take a guided tour with James, the local site guide. If you are interested in the iron smelting and trading activities of these people in the 1800s, follow this link: https://www.sanparks.org/parks/kruger/people/heritage/masorini.php

An interesting bit of information (for me) was that the women were not allowed to have any knowledge of the process in case they pass it on to rival tribes. They had to sit somewhere out of earshot/view and weave baskets while the men were doing the smelting. Iron ore was brought up from the lower lying Phalaborwa region to the smelter on this hill. The elevation provided security and allowed ample reaction time in case of enemy advance. Iron was a much sought after trade commodity.

Allegedly the remains of an original smelter
Allegedly, the reconstructed remains of an original smelter
Masorini Iron Age Settlement
Masorini Iron Age Settlement, renovated by the local people
Artefacts from the period, inside the site museum
Artefacts from the period, inside the site museum

After refueling at Palaborwa we headed towards Dullstroom. The road was scenic and not very busy at all. We arrived at Dullstroom in the late afternoon and found a camping spot at the Dullstroom Dam. In fact, it is the only camp ground in town. After a delicious dinner at the Dullstroom Inn we settled down and had a good night’s sleep.

Lone campers at Dullstroom Dam
Lone campers at Dullstroom Dam

The next morning we had breakfast at The Rose Cottage and a subsequent coffee at Beans About Coffee Roastery. We arrived home in the mid-afternoon. It was a good break indeed.